Why Do Dogs Sneeze When They’re Excited?

Why do dogs sneeze when they’re excited? The answer could be simple — or not. Plus, what about reverse sneezing or when dog sneezing gets serious?

You must remember this: A kiss is just a kiss, but a sneeze might be more than just a sneeze. So, why do dogs sneeze when they’re excited? There seem to be two schools of thought on the topic, adding a whiff of controversy to this common behavior.

Still, the fundamental things apply when asking, “Why do dogs sneeze when they’re excited?” Dogs have sensitive noses. And like humans, they sneeze if something irritates the inside of their nose, causing a tickle, then a sneeze from the chest and lungs to expel the offending intruder.

Why do dogs sneeze excited? They’re simply and truly just excited!

Why do dogs sneeze? They’re excited.

Why do dogs sneeze when they’re excited? When dogs are in an excited state, they often sneeze more shallowly, emitting a snorting sound caused by a sudden force of breath from the nose.

“These are not sneezes the way we think of a sneeze in people: a respiratory response from deep down,” says Debra Eldredge, DVM. “This is more like a child fooling around and pretending to sneeze.” Such sneezes are a form of canine communication, says the Vernon, New York, veterinarian and author. They happen frequently during play, when dogs naturally get excited. “This can be a ‘remember it is just play’ sound, something to cool things off if they are getting a bit heated. The sneeze communicates that the dogs are playing,” Dr. Eldredge says. “Turid Rugaas was one of the first people to really categorize dog interactions.”

Why do dogs sneeze when they’re excited? It calms them down.

Rugaas wrote the 2006 dog-training manual On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals. In it, the Norwegian author and dog trainer identifies 30 ways dogs communicate with each other — and with humans — through what she calls “calming signals.”

These signals, including sneezes, are a way of calming a situation before it gets too wild. The behaviors are the canine equivalent of social skills, a repertoire of body language and interaction used to communicate many things, including avoidance of conflict and an invitation to play. All dogs understand the code — even those who do not display the behaviors themselves, Rugaas says.

Why do dogs sneeze when they’re excited? They’re playing.

Why do dogs sneeze? They might be playing.

So, “Why do dogs sneeze when they’re excited?” has a simple answer, right? Bruce Fogle, DVM, isn’t buying the above reasoning. “It’s not a signal, calming or otherwise,” says the veterinarian and author who lives in London, England. “My hunch is that dogs sneeze when excited because they wrinkle their noses, that causes a tickle, and boom!”

Indeed, conditions surrounding canine play are conducive to triggering a sneeze. Wrestling dogs curl their lips and bump noses. They often wind up on their backs, making things more likely to travel up their nose. Roughhousing kicks up dirt and dust that can irritate the nose, as can a blade of grass or bugs stirred up from the ground. All of these situations can cause the involuntary reflex of sneezing. “You can’t genuinely sneeze on demand,” Dr. Fogle says, “but you can’t help it if your nasal membranes get stimulated.”

Why do dogs sneeze when they’re excited? Some final thoughts.

So, why do dogs sneeze when they’re excited? It depends on whom you ask. Are dogs communicating in a universal canine language that they want to take a break, slow things down and diffuse an intense situation before it escalates? If so, perhaps a sneeze is meant to communicate the same thing to humans in stressful situations, such as training sessions. (Remaining calm and patient with your dog is always a good idea.)

Dog sneezing might be, as some believe, a dog’s way of communicating to both dogs and humans that they are excited, happy and want to play. Or maybe a sneeze is just a sneeze — a simple reflexive response to something bothering a dog’s nose. Clearly, the answer is not as plain as the nose on your face. It seems only the nose knows.

Why do dogs sneeze — is it ever something serious?

Why do dogs sneeze … whether they’re excited or not? Sneezing dogs can have a cute factor, but some causes are nothing to sneeze at. While sneezing is a normal way for the body to expel an irritant, it also can be a sign of:

- allergies
- bacterial or viral infections
- teeth problems
- something stuck in the nose
- tumors

If your dog sneezes repeatedly for an extended period or if you notice signs associated with colds and allergies (red eyes, nasal discharge, itchiness, coughing) or behavioral changes (such as foot chewing), contact your veterinarian.

Why do dogs sneeze … in reverse?

Reverse sneezing is a spasm caused by something irritating the throat, nasal cavity or soft palate. A reverse sneeze brings air in, not out,” says Debra Eldredge, DVM. Brachycephalic (short-nosed or flat-faced dogs) and small dogs are more prone to reverse sneezing.

“Our Corgis have done this at times,” Dr. Eldredge says. “The dog will stop moving and make a bizarre sound.” Watching a dog reverse sneeze can be scary because it looks and sounds as though the dog is gasping for air. But these fairly common, often recurring episodes usually are brief and generally do not require medical care. Softly massaging your dog’s throat can alleviate an episode. And Dr. Eldredge suggests, “Putting your hand gently over the nose often helps to stop it and ‘reset’ normal breathing.”

Why do dogs sneeze in the wild?

Why do dogs sneeze in the wild?

When African wild dogs sneeze, they might be casting a vote. These dogs gather their pack and determine whether to move based on sneezes, according to a study published in the September 2017 Proceedings of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences, a London, England-based research journal.

Researchers studied five packs of African wild dogs in Botswana and found that the dogs hold a group decision-making “rally” before setting out on a hunt. If the rally is initiated by a dominant pack member, at least three sneezes from among the pack will launch a collective move. Lower-ranking members also have their say, albeit requiring a bit more agreement: a minimum of 10 sneezes.

“Physiologically, the rapid exhalation may function to prepare the pack to hunt by clearing the nasal cavity to make scenting and running easier,” the study states, “but this does not preclude that sneezing may also be a true voting mechanism.”

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Adrienne Farricelli is a professional CPDT-KA certified dog trainer, and for the last 10 years she has been helping people to eliminate bad behaviors in dogs and train well behaved, obedient, loving pets…by showing them how to bring out the ‘hidden intelligence’ inside their dog. Keep reading to find out more…

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What Vegetables Can Dogs Eat?

What vegetables can dogs eat? Can dogs eat tomatoes? And can dogs eat carrots, celery, avocados and corn? Learn what vegetables are safe for dogs, what vegetables are good for dogs — and which veggies dogs should avoid.

What vegetables can dogs eat? Can dogs eat tomatoes, celery, cucumbers, corn and other vegetables? This is a question — like “can dogs eat apples, grapes, strawberries and other fruits?” — that I’ve often asked myself while strolling through the local farmers’ market or the produce section of the grocery store. Here at Dogster, let’s answer the question, “What vegetables can dogs eat?” by looking at the dos and don’ts for a few common vegetables:

1. Can dogs eat tomatoes?

Are tomatoes safe for dogs to eat? The answer is it’s complicated

Are tomatoes safe for dogs to eat? Sort of — and be careful. Large quantities of tomato should not be fed to dogs; ingested in great enough volumes, naturally occurring chemicals in the fruit can cause heart and nervous system problems.

However, this may cause some consternation, but in small quantities, the tomato fruit is okay for dogs. There has long been debate on dogs and tomatoes, but the worst a little bit of ripe tomato will do to a dog is cause some stomach upset.

The green parts of the tomato plant — the vine, leaves, stems and unripe fruit — are another matter altogether. Solanine is a chemical found in high concentrations in these parts. One of the tomato’s natural defenses, solanine is found throughout the nightshade family, including the tomato and potato. If you have tomatoes in your garden, you’re better off keeping the dog out.

2. Can dogs eat carrots?

Can dogs eat carrots?

Another common question dog parents have when thinking, “What vegetables can dogs eat?” concerns carrots. Your dog is safe with carrots, preferably cut up into smaller sticks or pieces that they can easily chew on.

3. Can dogs eat celery?

Interestingly enough, too much celery can cause dogs to urinate a great deal more than usual. But cut into small, chewable, digestible pieces — with the leaves removed— celery is okay for dogs in limited amounts.

4. Can dogs eat cucumbers?

Cucumbers are safe for dogs to eat. Look at this tiny gentleman gnawing on one!

Another common vegetable to consider when thinking, “What vegetables can dogs eat?” is cucumbers. Especially if it’s peeled and given in chewable portions, cucumber is fine for dogs. As for pickles, the excess of vinegar and salt in pickles may be a bit more than your dog’s digestive system would appreciate.

5. Can dogs eat avocado?

Parts of the avocado tree and fruit contain a natural antifungal agent called persin, which is hazardous to dogs when consumed in great enough quantities. Needless to say the pit or seed of an avocado should not be given to a dog; aside from the natural toxins it contains, it can cause intestinal blockages. However, it’s safe for dogs to eat the green, fruit part of an avocado in small amounts.

6. Can dogs eat corn? Can dogs eat popcorn?

Is corn okay for dogs to eat? What about popcorn for dogs?

While the kernels of ripe corn are okay for dogs, the cob itself is a bit more dangerous. Ingested by a dog, even small pieces of corn cob can tear at and cause damage to the walls of a dog’s digestive tract. As for popcorn, take common-sense precautions. Plain and unadorned — that is to say, air popped, with neither salt nor butter — popcorn can be a nice treat for a dog. Bottom line: served in an appropriate manner, both corn and popcorn are safe for dogs to eat.

7. Can dogs eat broccoli?

Broccoli is another staple to consider when questioning, “What vegetables can dogs eat?” In very small amounts, the head of broccoli should not present any issues for your dog, but only in very small amounts. Received wisdom across multiple sources suggests that if it accounts for no more than five to 10 percent of a dog’s daily food intake, broccoli is all right for dogs. More than that and you can have a dog with a severely upset stomach. Therefore, broccoli is another yes and no affair; use your best judgement.

8. Can dogs eat potatoes? Can dogs eat sweet potatoes?

Are potatoes safe for dogs to eat?

As with tomatoes, the leaves, stems and unripened fruit of potato plants contain solanine, which is toxic to dogs. Even ripe, a potato is not a good idea for dog nutrition. Peeled, and then cooked or mashed, on the other hand, your dog may enjoy a bit of potato. Observe the same caution you would with popcorn, and make sure there’s no salt or butter present. The same — no additives — goes for sweet potatoes, even though they are fundamentally different plants.

9. Can dogs eat onions?

Eaten by dogs, onions cause red blood cells to break down, a condition called hemolytic anemia. The breakdown of red blood cells means that the dog gets less oxygen. The more concentrated the onion, the more quickly it works.

Can dogs eat garlic? Your dog should avoid garlic as well for the same reason. If you’re like me and enjoy onion in your guacamole, it’s even more a reason to keep that avocado dip you find delicious well away from your dog. The answer here is definitely no.

10. Can dogs eat asparagus?

Asparagus is another household veggie that crops up when thinking, “What vegetables can dogs eat?” Well, as long as the amount is small and reasonable, asparagus presents no problems for dogs.

11. Can dogs eat green beans?

Green beans, in moderation, are fine for dogs. Raw or cooked, as long as you avoid salt and other additives, your dog may enjoy some green beans.

12. Can dogs eat peas?

If you dog has a taste for peas, then by all means, let them have a few! When it comes to, “What vegetables can dogs eat?” this one is a yes.

In 1816, Richard Lawrence wrote that “parsnips, carrots, cabbages, and, indeed all vegetable matter, will feed dogs sufficiently well for the purposes of their existence.” Fortunately, we know better now to steer our dogs clear of avocado and onion, as well as to keep them from many unripened vegetable plants in the garden.

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How to Trim Dog Nails — Safely

Want to try clipping your dog's nails at home? These detailed directions on how to trim dog nails will help you keep your pup happy and pain-free during the process.

I’ve done my share of dog nail trimming, so I realize that it makes many pet parents a little twitchy. Sure, the thought of inflicting possible pain tends to have that effect. But remember that successful trims really come down to a few basic guidelines involving 1) the comfort of the canine, and 2) the technique used by the trimmer (i.e., you). Nail trimming isn’t something we can ignore entirely because overly long nails can actually affect pup posture and joints. But if you’ve been on the fence about how to trim dog nails safely at home, let’s start with a quick anatomical overview.

First, let’s talk about the anatomy of dog nails

The quick, a pinkish-colored area near the nail base, is much easier to visualize on lighter-colored dogs with whitish nails

Before we learn how to trim dog nails, let’s talk about the anatomy of dog nails. The canine nail is kind of like a Klondike bar, meaning it’s composed of layers. The sturdy outer “shell” is the part we actually see. Inside this protective coating is a soft inner layer known as the quick. This layer — which contains blood vessels and nerves — begins at the base of the nail, and ends near the curve. Cutting the quick is a big “ouch” for your pup and often causes yelping/bleeding/general dismay. So it’s important that you can picture precisely where that inner layer is situated.

If you have a dog with light-colored nails, the quick is easy to see. It looks like a pinkish-colored segment near the nail base. Dark or black nails usually conceal this; so if necessary, borrow a white Poodle to get a feel for general positioning. Once you’ve located the quick, never trim closer than 2 to 3 millimeters away.

Dog nail trimming tools

The next thing to know when it comes to how to trim dog nails? Let’s look at-home trimming tools. Some people prefer clippers; others like grinders. Simply select the option that makes you and your pup feel most at ease.

I’ve noticed that grinders provide some added control and smoothness — a Dremel is one example — but certain dogs are spooked by the buzzing noise. Clippers are available in two varieties: scissor and guillotine. The first is self-explanatory, with Safari and Miller’s Forge representing two solid options. Guillotine clippers are designed with a hole that the dog’s nail pokes through. Squeeze the handle, and a blade snicks up to cut the nail. The easy-to-use Zen Clipper, which we reviewed recently on Dogster, falls into this category, too.

Preparing to trim your dog’s nails

Prepare appropriately before trimming your dog’s nails.

One of the key steps for how to trim dog nails safely and successfully is good prepwork and practice. Initially, experiment a bit to decide which dog nail trimming tool you prefer. I like to do a few practice cuts on a toothpick or skinny chopstick. Then put aside that tool, and get your pooch accustomed to having his paws held. Some dogs, like our Maizy, abhor any type of foot contact and will yank their leg away. So simply hold each paw in your hand daily, touching the nails for a few seconds. The moment you release, reward with tons of praise and a tiny treat.

After doing this for several weeks, place your chosen trimming tool on the floor with a few tasty treats on top. Let your pooch sniff the tool and take the treats, while you praise enthusiastically. Using a grinder? Switch it on for a couple moments and give your dog a treat. Perform these exercises for a minimum of two to three weeks — or until your canine seems completely at ease.

Once you’re ready to try an actual trim, choose some favorite low-cal training treats to keep nearby. Also have a small jar of styptic powder and some cotton balls on hand. This is only a precaution when it comes to how to trim dog nails because cutting the quick is unlikely if you’re careful. But know that patting styptic powder around the nail base stops any bleeding. Now go back and read those last couple sentences again. Okay? Deep breath — you got this!

Find a comfy spot with nice, bright lighting. Get your dog in a relaxed position — standing or reclining on the floor.

How to trim dog nails: clipper method

- Hold the tool in your dominant hand.
- Hold your pup’s paw firmly in your other hand — thumb on the foot pad, fingers atop the foot, near the nail bed.
- Begin at the very tip — especially if your dog has dark nails.
- Only trim about 1 to 2 mm at a time, gradually moving toward the quick.
- Examine the cross-section of your dog’s nail each time you cut. When you start seeing a tan-colored oval, you’re nearing the quick … so stop cutting.
- Use a nail file to smooth rough edges.

How to trim dog nails: grinder method

- As with the clippers, hold the tool in your dominant hand; dog’s paw firmly in your other hand.
- Gently touch the grinder to the tip of your dog’s nail and silently count to two.
- Remove the grinder for a few seconds; praise your pup; repeat.
- Continue until you begin seeing that tan-colored oval … then stop.

Some final tips on how to trim dog nails

Be extremely patient, go slowly, and offer tons of praise and/or training treats. Never trim when you’re rushed. Likewise, if you start seeing canine stress signals like yawning, take a calming break. No rule says you need to do all four paws at once. So after you’ve rewarded your pup, reward yourself. Klondike bar, anyone?

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Adrienne Farricelli is a professional CPDT-KA certified dog trainer, and for the last 10 years she has been helping people to eliminate bad behaviors in dogs and train well behaved, obedient, loving pets…by showing them how to bring out the ‘hidden intelligence’ inside their dog. Keep reading to find out more…

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The Best Dog Food for All Life Stages

What do you feed a puppy? How about an adult dog or an older dog? Let's discuss the best dog food according to your dog's age.

If it were up to your dog, he’d be on a steady diet of pizza and cheeseburgers. Since those things aren’t good for dogs, your job as a pet parent is to pick healthy food made especially for canines. Choosing a food brand can be daunting enough with all the different choices out there. And what about type of food? And then there’s canned versus dry — which should you pick? Let’s break things down by the best dog food for all life stages.

The best dog food to feed a puppy

What is the best dog food to feed to a puppy?

When my Corgi, Nigel, was a puppy, I fed him the puppy food recommended by his breeder. It was a quality premium brand, and he liked it. He only ate dry kibble because his sensitive tummy couldn’t handle the canned version. Dry food has less moisture than canned, so Nigel was less likely to get loose stools with dry food.

Puppies are as different from dogs as human babies are from adults when it comes to what their digestive systems will tolerate. While Nigel had trouble with canned food, my parents’ Pomeranian, Monique, did great on canned food as a puppy.

Whether it’s dry or canned, what’s most important is that the food is made especially for puppies. “Puppies need more protein than adult dogs do,” said canine nutrition expert Mary Straus of DogAware.com, who added that, despite what some people think, high protein does not cause orthopedic problems in growing pups. “Too much calcium and overfeeding in general are the culprits there.”

The best dog food to feed a puppy is a food formulated especially for young dogs and to give the amount listed on the bag or can. Being a Corgi, Nigel would have eaten three times the recommended amount of food if I’d let him, but the result would have been an overweight puppy who may have developed joint problems. I had to deal with sad puppy eyes when he asked for more and I said no, but it was for his own good.

The best dog food to feed a growing dog

What is the best dog food to feed a growing dog?

Dogs in the age range of 6 to 18 months are ready for adult dog food. They need a lot of energy at this age, so the best dog food to feed a dog this age is a quality food with a good amount of calories.

My friend, Jorge, feeds his 10-month-old German Shepherd Dog a premium-brand kibble for adult dogs. Hemi is a bundle of energy, and Jorge finds it hard to keep weight on him. Hemi gets a big helping of dry food twice a day and is still hungry all the time. Dogs his age are very active and are still growing, so they usually have big appetites.

For some owners of young, growing dogs, money can be an issue. That makes dry food a more obvious choice. “Dry food is almost always cheaper than canned food, providing a comparable number of calories,” Straus said. “This impacts owners of large dogs more than those with small dogs, who may also have trouble getting through a bag of kibble while it is still fresh.”

Luckily, dog food manufacturers usually offer kibble in different sized bags. You can find bags starting at 5 pounds all the way up to 50 for some brands. If you have a small dog, you should buy a smaller bag. You don’t want to store dry food for more than 30 days because it starts to lose its freshness.

The best dog food to feed an adult dog

What is the best food to feed an adult dog?

My 6-year-old Australian Shepherd mix, Candy, has a slow metabolism. When I first adopted her from my local shelter, she was about 5 pounds overweight. She was probably eating kibble at her former home, and I’m sure that’s what she was getting at the shelter. To help her lose weight, I started her on a quality canned food. Canned food is generally lower in carbohydrates than dry food, and since Candy isn’t a very active dog, I thought putting her on a lower-carb diet would help her shed the pounds.

Of course I had to be careful with fat content, too. “Too much fat can lead to weight gain, especially in dogs who are not very active,” Strauss said. “If the amount fed must be strictly limited to prevent weight gain, this could contribute to nutritional deficiency, so I would reserve higher-fat foods for young, active dogs.”

After a few months of eating a measured amount of canned food, Candy dropped her extra 5 pounds. I then put her on a maintenance diet, which consists of both canned and dry food. She’s now at a good weight on this diet.

My friend Michelle, on the other hand, recently had to increase her Australian Cattle Dog’s food portions because Annabelle was a little too lean. After her vet referred to Annabelle as “a Victoria’s Secret model with no fat reserves to fall back on,” Michelle upped Annabelle’s kibble ration. Annabelle quickly gained about 2 pounds. She still has a lean body, but you can’t feel her ribs or hips anymore. So, the best dog food for an adult dog really depends on your individual dog!

The best dog food to feed a senior dog

What is the best dog food to feed a senior dog?

My neighbor’s senior Dachshund, Maynard, has arthritis and some other health issues that mean paying special attention to what he eats. Not only are Maynard’s teeth not working really well these days, he also has a tendency toward a picky appetite. His owners feed him a brand of canned food that he really likes. The wet food is easy for him to chew, and it also gives him more water in his diet.

“The added moisture in canned foods may be beneficial for older dogs to help them stay hydrated,” said Straus, who pointed out that adding water to dry food can do the same. But in Maynard’s case, he doesn’t want dry food. He only wants canned. And at his advanced age of 16, Maynard gets what Maynard wants.

Once a dog gets to a certain age, giving him a quality food that he enjoys eating is the best approach, whether it’s canned or dry. “The question of canned or dry doesn’t have to be either/or,” Straus said. “It’s fine to feed both, either together or in separate meals, as long as it agrees with your dog.”

The best dog food to feed your dog on a fresh food diet

Straus said you can improve commercial diets of all kinds at any stage of your dog’s life by adding fresh foods to her diet, including:

- Lean meats
- Eggs
- Canned fish without bones (sardines, pink salmon, jack mackerel)
- Dairy (yogurt, kefir, cottage cheese)
- Fresh fruits and vegetables (as long as you stay away from grapes or raisins, which can cause kidney failure in dogs).

If you share some of these healthy foods with your dog, only give him a little bit as a top dressing on his dog food. Too much of a good thing can upset his stomach — and leave you wishing you’d stuck with dog food.

The bottom line on the best dog food

Every dog, regardless of age, is an individual with specific needs. The best way to find the best dog food for your canine is to continually consult with your vet.

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